Bra fitting is as much about understanding breast shape as it is about finding the right size. While bra size gets most of the attention, breast shape plays a critical role in achieving the best, most comfortable and flattering fit.
If you thought trying to match bras to your measurement was confusing, addressing the matter of breast shape on top of breast size might make you lose all hope. But don't! Really. Understanding more about your body will absolutely lead you to having a drawer full of perfect bras. Hang in there.
The Importance of Breast Shape in Bra Fitting
Breast shape refers to how breast tissue is distributed on the chest, including its depth, width, height, and positioning. Unlike bra size, which is calculated using underbust and bust measurements, shape is about the unique contours of your breasts. Misunderstanding shape can lead to common fit issues like gaping cups, spillage, or discomfort, even in the “correct” size.
No two breasts are identical, even on the same person, and shape variations are normal. Factors like genetics, age, weight changes, pregnancy, and breastfeeding influence shape, making it essential to assess your own. Key shape characteristics include projection (how far breasts extend from the chest), root width (the base where breast tissue meets the chest), fullness (where tissue is concentrated), and spacing (how close or far apart breasts are).
Before going further, separate size from shape in your mind. "Wide" and "projected" do NOT mean "big" and vice-versa. We are discussing shape here, and it's almost nothing to do with size. Keep that in mind (it's harder to do than you might think).
Projected vs. Shallow Breasts
Projection describes how much breast tissue extends outward from the chest wall. The bigger boobs are, the more they stick out, yes. There's way more to your boobs' than that, though. Don't assume that small breasts are shallow and large are projected.
Size is not shape.
Projection versus shallow is about the relationship between total volume of a breasts tissue and how spread out over the chest it is (or not). So all breasts, regardless of size, can be projected or shallow. It’s one of the most critical factors in bra fit, as it determines the depth and shape of the cups you need. Misjudging projection can lead to fit issues—projected breasts in shallow bras cause spillage, while shallow breasts in projected bras result in empty, gaping cups. It does matter, so it's important to not guess or get it wrong.
Projected Breasts
These extend farther out from the chest, often requiring deeper cups to accommodate the tissue. Some describe projected breasts as “sticking out more” or having a “pointier” profile. Projected breasts may appear smaller when unsupported but need ample cup depth to avoid quad-boob (spillage over the top) or cutting into tissue. Women with projected breasts often find unlined/unpadded (either seamed or seamless) work best as these styles offer deeper cups. Brands like Panache, Elomi, Freya are recommended for projected shapes.
Shallow Breasts
Shallow breasts have tissue spread more evenly across the chest, with less forward projection of their volume. These breasts may appear fuller when unsupported and require less cup depth. Shallow-friendly bras, like padded demi cups or t-shirt bras, have wider, less-deep cups to encase tissue without gapping. A common complaint is that shallow-breasted women are often fitted into too-small cups by retailers using the +4 method, as their bust measurement seems smaller than their actual volume; so trust your measurements as-is. Brands like Natori or Chantelle are excellent for shallow-friendly options, but most molded and t-shirt bra-style bras are shallow.
How do you know if your boobs are projected or shallow?
Test #1
Several factors of breast shape contribute to a having projected breasts:
- Having narrow root width
- Having short root height
- Having soft tissue
Each of these contributes to projection, and they combine to increase how projected a breast is. So if any (or all) of those describe you—you very likely have projected breasts.
Test #2
Another easy test is to lean over without a bra on. Do your boobs noticeably fall further away from your body? If so, you have projected breasts. If they don't move much and seem to be self-supporting, you have shallow breasts.
Wide vs. Narrow Root
Root width is easier to identity and understand than projection. The breast root is the area where breast tissue attaches to the chest wall, and its width significantly affects bra fit. Root width determines how wide or narrow the bra’s cups and wires need to be. Incorrect wire width can cause discomfort, like wires sitting on breast tissue (too narrow) or poking the ribs (too wide).
To determine your breasts' root width, trace the outline of your breast tissue while leaning forward without a bra. Look and feel where your breasts' borders are on your chest. If your breasts extend around your chest and end close to your armpit, you have wide roots. If they end well before your armpits, you have narrow roots.
Wide Root
Breasts with a wide root have tissue that spans a broader area across the chest, often extending into the armpits or onto the sides. Wide-rooted breasts need bras with wider wires and cups to fully encase the tissue without cutting into it. Styles—and certain brands—such as full-coverage or side-support bras work well, as they accommodate lateral tissue. Brands like Elomi or Goddess for wide roots, as their wires are designed to follow a broader curve to accommodate wider boobs (regardless of cup size). A common issue is “side boob” escaping from too-narrow wires, leading to discomfort or bulging.
Narrow Root
Narrow-rooted breasts have tissue concentrated closer to the center of the chest, with a smaller footprint. These breasts require bras with narrower wires and more centered cups to avoid empty space at the sides. Plunge or half-cup bras often suit narrow roots, as they align with the tissue’s compact base. Brands like Cleo by Panache or Ewa Michalak are popular for narrow-rooted shapes. A frequent complaint of those with narrow-rooted boobs is that wide-wired bras leave gaps or slide down, failing to anchor properly.
Other Shape Factors and Their Impact
Beyond projection and root width, other shape characteristics influence fit:
Fullness (Top vs. Bottom): Fullness refers to where most breast tissue is located. Full-on-top breasts have more volume above the nipple, often needing bras with open-top cups (e.g., balconettes) to avoid gaping below. Full-on-bottom breasts have more tissue below the nipple, suiting bras with deeper, lower cups (e.g., plunges). Even fullness works with most styles.
Spacing (Close-Set vs. Wide-Set): Close-set breasts are closer together, often requiring bras with a narrow gore (the center piece between cups) to avoid sitting on tissue. Wide-set breasts need a wider gore for comfort. Users note that plunges suit close-set breasts, while full-coverage bras generally work for wide-set ones.
Height (Tall vs. Short Root): Tall roots extend higher up the chest, needing taller cups, while short roots need shorter cups to avoid gaping. This is less discussed but critical for petite or tall torsos.
Challenges and Solutions
First, many mainstream retailers ignore shape, using band-and-cup measurement sizing (or worse, the +4 method) to fit everyone into a limited size range (32–38, A–DD). There is a real—desperately real—need for shape-aware fitting. If the brands don't offer it, then it's up to you. Which, having read this far, now you are WAY more aware and informed.
Second, shape diversity means some trial and error is inevitable. Even in the correct size, a bra may not suit your shape. Understanding that fit is a combination of size and shape together, you can use the insight from the poorly fitting bra to find the great-fitting bra without having to resort only to trying a different band and/or cup size. You're empowered!
Third, cultural misconceptions about bra sizes (e.g., “D cups are huge”) complicate shape acceptance. When you're truly fitted for a bra in a way that fully considers your measurements AND shape, you may find that your cup size changes dramatically, and usually upward. There are lots and lots of women who were shocked to learn that they aren't a B cup, they're a DD. Not a D but a G. And so on. If that happens to you, just know it's normal and ok and you're on your way to the best fitting bras of your life.
The Hope at the End of the Tunnel
Understanding your breast shape—whether projected or shallow, wide- or narrow-rooted—is key to finding a bra that fits and feels great. By moving beyond size-alone fitting and learning more about your breasts' shape as part of your bra's fit, you can navigate the complexities of shape with actual confidence.
We want you to have a fit that you feel confident and comfortable in. We are here to help! Any questions you have can be sent to us via the Contact Form or directly by email to billysbras@gmail.com
