Vintage lingerie is making a HUGE comeback and is ultra trendy for those in the know. Maybe you've tried to hop on the trend, but were met with awful fits, weird sizing and you just couldn't make it work for you, much less look as chic and vintage-cool as your favroite fashion bloggers and celebs. What gives?!
Vintage camisoles (camis), half slips, and full slips use sizing systems that look completely different from modern clothing or lingerie labels. Numbers like 32, 34, 36, 32/38, or 32/38-24 leave many shoppers confused and lead to frequent sizing mistakes.
This definitive guide explains exactly what those numbers mean, how sizing worked from the 1940s through the 1980s, how to convert from your modern size or body measurements, and the precise steps to buy the correct fit every time—without frustration or disappointment.
Why Vintage Cami and Slip Sizing Feels So Confusing
Unlike modern standardized S/M/L or numeric dress sizes, vintage lingerie sizing focused primarily on actual body measurements in inches (bust for full slips and camisoles; waist or hips for half slips). There was no single industry-wide standard.
Manufacturers used their own grading, and labels often reflected the intended body measurement rather than a vanity size. Fabrics ranged from non-stretch silk or early nylon to later stretchier tricot, which affected how much ease (wearing room) was built in. Lengths also varied by fashion (longer in the 1940s–1950s, shorter in the 1960s mini era). The result: a labeled “34” does not equal a modern size 34 or even a consistent modern bra band. Success comes only from matching your body measurements to the garment’s actual measured dimensions.
What the Numbers on Vintage Labels Actually Mean
Single numbers (32, 34, 36, 38, etc.)
These almost always refer to the intended bust measurement in inches for full slips and camisoles. A “34” slip is designed for a body with approximately a 34-inch bust (with some ease depending on fabric and cut). Half slips may use waist numbers instead.
Range or dual numbers (32/34, 34/36, 32/38)
These indicate a more tailored fit. A 32/38 slip or cami is intended to fit busts up to 38 inches and an underbust of 32 inches. You can get a clear idea of how "roomy" the bust area is and tailor your fit there from loose and flowy to tight and form-fitting depending on how close your overbust measurement is to the second, larger number.
Complex labels like 32/38-24
These combine multiple measurements. The first part (32/38) is typically the rib and bust measurements as discussed above. The second number (-24) usually indicates the waist measurement the slip is cut for, or sometimes a specific style/fit code. In fitted or shaped slips (especially earlier decades or higher-end brands), the waist was graded proportionally. Always verify with actual measurements rather than assuming the secondary number is exact.
Other notations
Some labels include length indicators (Short, Average, Tall, or numbers referring to overall length). S/M/L appeared more in later decades or certain brands but still correlated to measurement ranges. “Misses” or numeric dress-like sizes occasionally appear but are unreliable without measurements.
How to Measure Yourself Accurately for Vintage Slips and Camis
Hot tip: Use a soft measuring tape. Stand straight, breathe normally, and measure over the undergarments you plan to wear with the slip or cami.
Bust: Around the fullest part of the bust, parallel to the floor. This is the primary measurement for full slips and camisoles.
Underbust (helpful for fitted styles): Directly under the bust.
Waist: At the natural waist (narrowest point, usually above the navel).
Hips: Around the fullest part of the hips and buttocks (usually 7–9 inches below the natural waist).
Torso length / desired slip length: From the top of the shoulder (or where a strap sits) down to where you want the hem to fall. Also measure from underbust to hem if relevant.
Write these numbers down. They are more important than any modern dress or bra size.
How to Measure a Vintage Garment (The Only Reliable Method)
Never trust the label alone. Ask for flat measurements and double the circumference ones if they aren't already given in a listing:
Bust / underarm: Lay the garment flat. Measure straight across from underarm seam to underarm seam (or side seam at the bust level). Double this number for the full bust circumference the garment offers.
Waist: Measure across the narrowest part (or elastic waistband on half slips) and double it.
Hips: Measure across about 7–9 inches below the waist and double it.
Length: For full slips and camis — from the top of the shoulder strap (or highest point of the neckline) to the hem. For half slips — from the top of the waistband to the hem.
Strap details: Note if straps are adjustable and their maximum/minimum length.
Compare the garment’s doubled measurements to your body measurements. Allow 1–3 inches of ease at the bust and hips for comfort and movement (less for very fitted non-stretch styles, more for stretchy nylon). The garment measurement should be equal to or slightly larger than your body measurement in most cases.
Sizing for Full Slips
Full slips hang from the shoulders with straps and cover from bust to hem. They are sized primarily by bust.
- Match your bust measurement to the garment’s doubled underarm measurement.
- Check length carefully—earlier decades often run longer.
- Fitted bodices (common 1940s–1950s) need accurate bust and underbust match; bias-cut or stretchier styles are more forgiving.
Conversion starting point: If you wear a modern 34B/C bra, begin looking at labeled 34 or 32/36 range slips, then verify measurements. Women with modern larger cups relative to band often size up in the bust range.
Sizing for Half Slips (Waist Slips)
Half slips start at the waist with an elastic (or sometimes fitted) waistband and hang like a skirt.
- Primary measurement is waist (or hips if the style is fuller).
- Elastic waists stretch, so a labeled waist can accommodate a range. Measure the relaxed and stretched waistband.
- Hip measurement matters for walking ease and silhouette.
- Lengths range from mini (1960s onward) to knee, mid-calf, or formal/ankle.
Conversion: Match your waist measurement to the garment. Modern size 8–10 often corresponds to vintage half-slip waists around 25–28 inches, but always measure.
Sizing for Camisoles (Camis)
Camisoles are essentially the top half of a full slip—bust coverage with straps, ending at the waist or hips.
- Sized almost exclusively by bust, same method as full slips.
- Some are more fitted with darts; others are looser or stretchy.
- Length and strap adjustability are key for layering under clothing.
Use the same bust-matching process. Many women successfully wear the same bust number as their full slips.
Decade-by-Decade Notes on Fit and Sizing Tendencies
1940s–1950s: More fitted, often non-stretch or low-stretch fabrics, defined busts, longer lengths. Labels lean toward single bust numbers or proportional waist indications. Expect less give—size carefully and prefer adjustable straps.
1960s: Shorter lengths appear with minis. More nylon tricot with moderate stretch. Range sizing (32/36 etc.) becomes common. Fit is smoother and less structured.
1970s–1980s: Greater stretch, more variety in lengths and colors, closer to modern ease in many brands. Labels may include S/M/L alongside numbers. Still prioritize measurements over the tag.
Practical Conversion Examples from Modern Sizes
These are approximate starting points only—always confirm with garment measurements:
Modern bra 32A/B or dress size 2–4 → look for labeled 32 or 30/34 range; measure for ~31–34" bust garment.
Modern bra 34B/C or dress size 6–8 → labeled 34 or 32/36; target garment bust ~33–37".
Modern bra 36C/D or dress size 10–12 → labeled 36 or 34/38; target ~35–39".
Modern bra 38D+ → labeled 38 or 36/40+ ranges.
For half slips, convert via waist: modern pant size 6–8 often starts around vintage 26–28" waist, adjusting for elastic stretch.
Final Fit Checklist Before Wearing or Keeping
The slip or cami should sit smoothly without pulling across the bust or hips, straps should stay in place without digging, the hem should fall at the desired length under your outer clothing, and you should be able to move comfortably. If the bust gaps or binds, or the waist rolls, it is the wrong size regardless of the label.
By focusing on actual inches rather than the confusing numbers on the tag, you can confidently select vintage camisoles, half slips, and full slips that fit beautifully and authentically. Measure yourself, insist on garment measurements, allow appropriate ease, and the mystery of sizes like 32/38-24 disappears. This method works across every decade and brand, turning vintage lingerie shopping from frustrating guesswork into reliable success.
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If you have questions or would like specific measurements on any of our vintage slips and camisoles, just send us a message!
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