Guide to Vassarette Bra Styles, Sizing and Fit

Below is a mostly-comprehensive list of Vassarette bras, including their style names and style numbers, with notations on whether each is suitable for shallow or projected breasts and wide or narrow roots. The list prioritizes bras currently available in 2025, but includes discontinued and vintage styles (pre-2000s) for reference.

Vassarette, now under Fruit of the Loom, focuses on affordable, comfortable everyday intimates with a legacy of pointy vintage designs evolving to modern seamless fits.

Notes on Fit and Breast Shape

Shallow vs. Projected: Shallow breasts have less forward projection and a wider base, needing wider, less deep cups to avoid gaping or empty space at the top. Projected breasts extend farther out, requiring deeper cups with immediate projection at the wire. Vassarette bras often feature molded, seamless constructions that provide smoothing for shallower profiles, while some unlined or lightly padded options offer lift for moderate projection. Unlike European brands, Vassarette categorizes by coverage (full, demi, minimizer) rather than bust type, but reviews suggest seamless t-shirt bras for shallow (e.g., Invisibly Smooth) and full-coverage underwire for projected (e.g., Perfect Comfort). 

Wide vs. Narrow Roots: Wide roots span a broader chest area, needing wider wires for comfort and to prevent digging into breast tissue; narrow roots are more compact, needing narrower wires to ensure the gore tacks fully. Vassarette wires are generally average to wide, suiting average to wide roots well—ideal for fuller figures in sizes up to DDD. For narrow roots, plunges or demi styles like Lace Lift work better with lower gores. Older vintage styles (e.g., 1950s Hollywood Vassarette) have narrower wires for slimmer roots, while modern ones favor broader fits to minimize back bulge.

How to Use This List

Identify Your Shape: Use general resources A Bra That Fits shape guide (shallow/average/full) or measure underbust to fullest point and root width. 

Match Bra Style: For shallow breasts, prioritize molded, seamless, or minimizer bras (e.g., Invisibly Smooth, Second Skin). For projected breasts, choose underwire full-coverage or lightly padded (e.g., Perfect Comfort, Lace Lift). Vintage pointy styles suit projected FOT for retro lift but may poke modern wide roots.

Check Root Width: Ensure wire width aligns with your root—Vassarette’s average-wide wires favor average to wide roots, but demi/plunges work for narrow.

Additional Notes

Shape-Specific Collections: Vassarette’s Invisibly Smooth line (e.g., 12306, 12308) excels for shallow breasts with average to wide roots, offering molded seamless cups for smoothing under clothes with all-day comfort. The Perfect Comfort series (e.g., 4800, 4826) provides wireless options for versatile shapes, reducing pressure for sensitive or shallow profiles. Lace Lift (9212) and vintage plunges like Tease Me cater to projected narrow roots with low gores for centering FOT tissue.

Some wearers critique Vassarette full-coverage (e.g., 75-209) for being too shallow on highly projected FOT breasts or causing side spillage on very wide-root FOB. Conversely, seamless styles like Second Skin (75-144) are great for shallow wide shapes but may gap on narrow projected due to average depth. Bands run true to US sizing (30-50, A-DDD) but stretch over time—opt for snug fit and rotate to maintain elasticity.

 Wire Width: Vassarette bras typically have average to wide wires, suiting average to wide roots but challenging very narrow ones (e.g., Lace Lift plunges for closer fits). Vintage styles like Hollywood bullet bras have narrower wires, ideal for slimmer roots but less forgiving on modern fuller figures.

 Discontinued & Vintage Styles: Favorites like I Wonda Wear (75-600) and Tease Me (75-825) remain popular for their supportive, sexy fits but vary in condition. 1950s-1960s bullet bras (e.g., pointelle lace) offer projected lift but require vintage sizing conversion (bust measurement over band).

Fit Variability: Cup depth increases with size (e.g., deeper in DDD). For projected shapes, sister size up in cup (e.g., 34DD vs. 36D) if too shallow; for shallow, down a cup to avoid gapping. Vassarette uses US sizing. Always scoop and swoop.